Watches Archives - Sharp Magazine

Perpetual Planet Initiative: Rolex Supports Scientists On Arctic Adventure

Jeremy Freed — Mon, 12 Jun 2023 23:13:59 +0000

His first two dives were unsuccessful, but on the third, approaching 80 metres below the surface of the Arctic Ocean, Ghislain Bardout found what he was looking for: a forest. Unlike forests on land, which are fed by sunlight and rainwater, what Bardout and his team discovered in the dimly lit depths off Svalbard, Norway looked like something from another planet.

Populated by hydroids, jellyfish-like predators with delicate tendrils resembling flowers and ferns, this glade is part of an ecosystem that scientists know very little about. With climate change making its most extreme impacts at the poles, however, the future of creatures living in undersea gardens like this one could be in jeopardy. That’s what makes Bardout’s latest mission, dubbed Deeplife, so important.

Along with his wife, Emmanuelle Périé-Bardout, Bardout is the co-founder and co-director of Under the Pole, a nonprofit organization dedicated to exploring the world’s oceans and spreading awareness about the unique ecosystems found there. With a host of factors threatening aquatic life, from acidification and rising sea temperatures to plastic pollution and overfishing, there has never been a more important time to undertake this work, the Bardouts say.

“If we cut down a forest on land, we lose the habitat of thousands of species that are essential to biodiversity,” explains Périé-Bardout. “Underwater, it’s the same, but the difference is we don’t see our marine forests. The idea of Deeplife is to make the invisible visible.”

With help from Rolex’s Perpetual Planet initiative, which promotes exploration to preserve the natural world, Deeplife is dedicated to expanding scientific knowledge of marine animal forests in the oceans’ mesophotic zone.

Located between the ocean’s brightly lit shallow waters and its deepest, darkest depths, a wide array of marine life makes its home here, and much of it can be found nowhere else. While shallower depths of the oceans have been explored for decades, it’s only recently, thanks to advancements in diving technology, that scientists have begun to explore this region.

The mission to Svalbard is the first of three such expeditions the Bardouts and their team will undertake between 2022 and 2023, and while each will present unique challenges, exploring under the Arctic ice pack requires particular skill. Adding to the complexity is the challenge of operating from an aluminum-hulled schooner sailboat, the WHY. While it’s able to accommodate 12 crew members and the supplies for an extended voyage, there is little room for error when navigating a small craft through such dangerous terrain.

“Compared to sailing in other parts of the world, each mistake can cost a lot,” says Emmanuelle. “It combines the most difficult things you can imagine; complicated weather, ice, and isolation.”

The dives themselves — which far exceed the recreational diving depth of 30 metres — require both extensive training and highly specialized gear. “These are really tough, really difficult dives,” says Bardout. “The cold is something that hurts, and that wears out the teams. It requires particularly substantial equipment.”

Among the equipment most crucial to their mission in Svalbard are rebreather suits, which extend the time divers can spend under the water by recycling exhaled CO2. Another advantage to the rebreathers is that, unlike conventional scuba gear, they don’t emit bubbles, which can disturb animals and their delicate habitats on the sea floor.

After discovering the arctic marine forest, the Deeplife team spent the next 10 days on-site, installing sensors, taking samples, and recording data. The specimens recovered from the forest were then packed aboard the WHY for their return journey to France, where they were handed off to scientists for further study.

The team’s next missions will take them to the Canary Islands and the Caribbean, where they will study corals. Then, they’ll sail back to the team’s headquarters in Concarneau, France in the summer of 2023.

Despite the success of their expedition in Svalbard, Deeplife’s larger mission only begins once they return home and share their findings with the world. By raising awareness of ecosystems like the Arctic marine forests and the existential threats that face them, the Bardouts and their team hope to create a future in which humans live in greater harmony with the planet.

“We have the obligation to work for this change for future generations, to leave behind a living world for them tomorrow so that they too have the possibility to be enriched by it, inspired by it, and dream,” says Ghislain.

The post Perpetual Planet Initiative: Rolex Supports Scientists On Arctic Adventure appeared first on Sharp Magazine.

Meet the Rolex 1908: A Rare New Release From the Legendary Maker

Jeremy Freed — Thu, 08 Jun 2023 15:15:45 +0000

Rolex doesn’t often release new models, tending instead to offer variations on their core collection with incremental refinements each year. So, there was no shortage of excitement when the Swiss watchmaker revealed the 1908 at the Watches & Wonders Geneva trade show earlier this year.

Not only is the 1908 the first new name added to the Rolex catalogue since the release of the Sky-Dweller in 2012, it’s also the first watch in an entirely new Rolex family, the Perpetual collection. A “reinterpretation of traditional watchmaking style imbued with quintessential watchmaking expertise and the aesthetic heritage of Rolex,” the Perpetual collection opens the door to a vast wealth of classic design from the Rolex archive that is sure to drive collectors into a frenzy.

The Rolex 1908 is named for the year in which Rolex founder Hans Wilsdorf registered his brand in Switzerland, and it replaces the Rolex Cellini line of dress watches. The Cellini has had many iterations and fans during its long life, from Elvis Presley to Barack Obama, but in the company of classics like the Day-Date, Submariner, and Daytona, it rarely got the love it deserved. As the Cellini’s replacement, the 1908 has its work cut out for it to find an audience. Thanks to a classic design, a state-of-the-art new movement, and some unique details, however, there’s plenty to love.

The 1908 features a 39 mm case in 18 ct yellow or white gold, a fine size for a modern dress watch and most wrists. The top edges of the lugs are gently chamfered to highlight their graceful curve and the bezel combines fluting with a polished dome. It’s water-resistant to 50 metres, which is less than Rolex’s other watches, but more than enough to protect the movement inside. (If the alligator leather Dualclasp strap didn’t tip you off, this is not the watch you wear to the pool or the beach). Most significantly, the case features a display case back which provides a rare glimpse at the finely finished movement inside.

The Rolex 1908

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The Rolex 1908

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The Rolex 1908

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The movement is the Rolex calibre 7140, which was unveiled this year and carries the brand’s Superlative Chronometer certification. The new movement includes the best pieces in the Rolex parts bin, including a patented Chronergy escapement, which is resistant to strong magnetic fields, and a patented Syloxi hairspring for optimum accuracy and reliability. Paraflex shock absorbers, meanwhile, add durability and impact resistance in the event you should knock your 1908 on a doorframe or (heaven forbid) drop it on the floor.

The significance of this display case back can’t be overstated – as the only watch in the Rolex collection to feature this detail, owners of the 1908 will be the only people aside from certified Rolex technicians who get to admire the inner workings of their watch. The parts on view include an 18 carat, yellow gold oscillating weight and bridges decorated with Rolex Côtes de Genève stripes. The decoration differs from traditional Côtes de Genève thanks to a polished groove between each band.

While many other Rolex watches feature complications like dates, day-dates, and GMTs, the 1908 stays true to its roots in a simpler era of watch design, with Arabic numerals at 3, 9, and 12, and a small seconds subdial at six o’clock. It’s simple, elegant, and – for a brand known for incremental changes – a major departure from business as usual. As the first member of the Perpetual collection, however, there’s likely much more where this came from.

Learn more.

The post Meet the Rolex 1908: A Rare New Release From the Legendary Maker appeared first on Sharp Magazine.

Longines Spirit Flyback: An Aviation Pioneer

Sharp Staff — Tue, 06 Jun 2023 18:34:14 +0000

SHARP & Longines

Longines, the Swiss watchmaking brand founded in 1832, has a rich aviation history. The brand has produced a large number of pilot’s watches and chronographs, on-board equipment, and other navigation instruments that were part of the development of civil and military aviation throughout the first half of the 20th century.

American aviator and U.S. Naval officer Richard Byrd is one of the many legendary pioneers who placed their faith in Longines, utilizing the brand’s instruments to become the first man to fly over the South Pole in 1929. The 1,290 km journey took almost 19 hours. Byrd undertook three more expeditions to Antarctica, including one in 1939, during which he wore a Longines 13ZN watch with flyback function, a complication intrinsically linked to the brand. Longines equipped its first models with a flyback function in 1925 and filed a patent which was registered on June 16, 1936, the first watch brand in the world to do so.

Today, Longines is breathing new life into this fascinating heritage with the Longines Spirit Flyback, a chronograph watch with a flyback function. The particular advantage of flyback is that it offers pilots a practical and fast way of successively timing different flight stages. A simple press of a pusher instantly resets the chronograph’s second hand, which then immediately restarts timing from zero. A single press enables three operations — stop, reset, and restart — in contrast to conventional chronographs, which require the stop and reset functions to be activated before restarting the timing function.

The Longines Spirit Flyback features cutting-edge technology, introducing a new exclusive Longines calibre that is resistant to magnetism and equipped with a silicon balance spring. Extremely precise, with a power reserve of 68 hours, the complete watch is certified as a chronometer by COSC (Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres). A transparent case back reveals all the details of the calibre, including a personalized weight engraved with the globe representing the Longines Spirit collection and the name Longines Flyback, a first for this emblematic line.

This new timepiece features a bi-directional bezel enhanced by a coloured ceramic insert with luminescent markers. The Longines Spirit Flyback is available in a black or blue sunray dial. Its bronze-shaded hands and numerals are coated with Super- LumiNova®, a pigment that after light exposure will glow in the dark to ensure optimal nighttime legibility. The 42 mm steel case has an interchangeable stainless-steel bracelet, a brown leather or blue fabric strap. The straps have a folding clasp fitted with a new micro-adjustment system for maximum comfort and a perfect fit. A beige NATO strap is also available.

Learn more.

The post Longines Spirit Flyback: An Aviation Pioneer appeared first on Sharp Magazine.

80th Monaco Grand Prix: Verstappen Celebrates Win With TAG Heuer

Cormac Newman — Thu, 01 Jun 2023 16:38:04 +0000

Crossing the Monaco Circuit finish line, Max Verstappen cemented his place in racing history. His first-place finish, won amidst fierce competition, concludes a triumphant weekend for the Oracle Red Bull Racing Team. They celebratedVerstappen’s achievement in the company of iconic Swiss luxury watch brand and longstanding partner TAG Heuer.

Considered one of the most challenging races on the Formula 1 calendar, the Monaco Grand Prix is reserved for drivers of the highest level. The circuit’s hairpin turns, high-speed straights, and slender streets demand drivers with top-notch precision and nerves of steel. TAG Heuer — the Official Watch of the Monaco Grand Prix since 2011 — has been proudly along for the ride as Verstappen has risen to become one of the most successful drivers in modern F1 history.

“Winning the Monaco Grand Prix is a dream come true for any driver, and we are incredibly proud of Max Verstappen for achieving this remarkable 2nd victory,” said Frédéric Arnault, CEO of TAG Heuer. “This victory is a testament to the hard work, dedication, and talent that our team embodies, and we are honoured to be a part of this historic moment in racing with our partner, the Oracle Red Bull Racing Team.”

Max Verstappen, a two-time Formula 1 champion, flaunts wristwear worthy of his achievements: a personalized TAG Heuer Monaco Chronograph skeleton dial timepiece. A follow-up to the custom Monaco chronograph gifted to the driver by TAG Heuer ahead of his historic win at 2021’s Monaco Grand Prix, its custom features are a testament to Verstappen’s racing prowess. The number 1, boldly highlighted in bright red, references his status as Formula 1’s top driver. Meanwhile, a caseback engraved with “one of one” recalls the watch’s one-of-a-kind design and two stars symbolize Verstappen’s championship victories.

Verstappen’s one-of-one chronograph is based on TAG Heuer’s new skeleton dial Monaco which was recently released in time for this year’s 80th Monaco Grand Prix. The new TAG Heuer Monaco chronograph, which has the first skeleton dial in the history of the Monaco collection, is proof of the watch’s eternal evolution more than 50 years after its inception. The collection boasts three new models with cutaway skeleton dials, each of which offers an intimate look at the Monaco’s intricate Calibre Heuer 02 Automatic movement within.

The triad of new Monaco Skeleton dials (available in Original Blue, Racing Red, and Luminous Turquoise liveries) offer a fresh new take on the Monaco’s distinctive square case. By reworking this classic design, the newest Monaco modelsencapsulate TAG Heuer’s commitment to high-speed performance and a legacy of embracing avant-garde technology alongside inventive construction. Guaranteed to make a statement on the race track or in the streets, the skeleton dial Monaco is the latest in a long line of iconic designs that have earned TAG Heuer its place at the front of the pack in motorsports watches.

The post 80th Monaco Grand Prix: Verstappen Celebrates Win With TAG Heuer appeared first on Sharp Magazine.

Behind the Scenes at Jaeger-LeCoultre

Jeremy Freed — Tue, 30 May 2023 15:00:00 +0000

Countless details go into a high-end watch, from the design of mechanical movements to the proprietary blends of metals that give a gold case its unique hue. Swiss luxury watchmaker Jaeger-LeCoultre is no stranger to highly complex movements and precious metals. In fact, it’s known for adding another layer of refinement to its timepieces in the form of traditional crafts like grand feu enamelling, miniature painting, and restoration of vintage movements.

As one of the leaders in the revival of these age-old techniques, Jaeger-LeCoultre counts no less than 180 different watchmaking crafts practiced at its Manufacture in the Vallée de Joux. A new series of videos highlights a few of them, from design and production of movements to hand-finishing and decoration of dials and cases. Together, they form a fascinating and intimate look behind the scenes at one of the world’s foremost watchmakers. The only way to get closer is to sign up for one of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s in-house Master Classes.

Polishing

Among the many invisible arts that go into watchmaking, polishing is as crucial as it is highly underrated. In this video, one of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s artisans details the extensive training and precision required to give the Reverso’s stainless steel case its combination of brushed and polished surfaces. There are some surprising reveals here, like the fact that polishers must practice for two years to operate the Maison’s lathes and that they operate them in the near-dark, working by feel to attain the necessary results. After watching this, you may never look at a watch case the same way again.

Enamelling

The design of Jaeger-LeCoutre’s Reverso provides a unique opportunity for the watchmaker to decorate the watch’s case in elaborate ways. Since the case is designed to swivel (an innovation created to protect the watch face from impacts on the polo field) the case back remains protected from the wearer’s skin and from the elements, and can therefore be decorated with elaborate miniature artworks. This video reveals how the Maison’s master enamelers use equal parts art and science to create pieces like the ones in the Reverso “Hidden Treasures” series, which feature tiny reproductions of masterworks by Klimt, Van Gogh and Courbet on their case backs.

Restoration

Jaeger-LeCoultre is one of few watchmakers with an in-house restoration program, in which vintage watches – some more than a century old – are lovingly restored to original condition and offered for sale as a capsule collection. This video describes the great lengths to which the brand’s skilled restoration team will go to return the watch to its former glory, from hand-making replacement parts on 19th-century machines to cleaning and polishing each screw. Each of the many steps involved in restoration requires a level of skill and a depth of knowledge that takes many years to acquire, making Jaeger-LeCoultre’s restoration specialists among the most skilled artisans of all.

From its spring drive movement with five days’ power reserve to its textured dial inspired by the Kuroshio current off Japan, the specs of this diver read like the greatest hits of Grand Seiko watchmaking. Add the lightness of a titanium case and an elevated level of finishing throughout, and the result is a stunning watch from every angle. ($15,100)

Glashütte Original SeaQ

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Not all of the world’s best dive watches are Swiss-made. This retro-inspired choice, with a midsized 39.5mm case, an in-house automatic movement, and sleek, onyx black dial, is a timely reminder that Germany’s watchmaking is on par with the best of the best. ($12,500)

Photography: Michael Kazimierczuk (Impossible Studios)

Prop Styling: Zach Noftall (Plutino Group)

Styling: Haley Dach

Photo Assistant: Ethan Allen

The post Make A Splash: A Guide to SHARP’s Favourite Dive Watches appeared first on Sharp Magazine.

TAG Heuer: Reinventing the Race

Jeremy Freed — Mon, 22 May 2023 13:00:00 +0000

The world’s great watchmakers have dreamed up countless variations of the chronograph over the years, from simple steel daily drivers to multi-complication grails in precious metals. The new TAG Heuer Monza Flyback Chronometer, however, isn’t quite like any of them. The 42 mm chronograph immediately catches the eye with its bold blue and red markers against a black skeletonized dial, colours that shine even brighter next to a black case made of forged carbon, a lightweight and resistant material imbued with contrasting swirls of grey.

TAG Heuer Monza Flyback Chronometer

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TAG Heuer Monza Flyback Chronometer

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TAG Heuer Monza Flyback Chronometer

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TAG Heuer Monza Flyback Chronometer

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TAG Heuer Monza Flyback Chronometer

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As fresh as the Monza’s design is, however, it’s not entirely new. Introduced at LVMH Watch Week in January 2023, this special edition marks the bold return of one of the most celebrated models in TAG Heuer’s archive. Part historical tribute and part high-tech style statement, the Monza Flyback Chronometer finds TAG Heuer reinventing the racing chronograph for a new generation of motorsports fans.

Motorsports watches have been an essential part of TAG Heuer’s identity since the advent of the Carrera and Monaco, two of the world’s most famous racing timepieces, in the 1960s. The Monza — launched in 1976 to celebrate Ferrari’s historic Formula One championship — represented another game-changing contribution to the genre. With a metal case coated in black chromium and a matching matte black dial with black registers, it was as stylish as it was modern, and a fitting tribute to the Formula 1 cars that inspired it. Fifty years later, thanks to its ongoing partnership with the world-champion Red Bull Formula 1 team, TAG Heuer is gunning for a place at the top of the sports watch podium.

The Monza Flyback Chronometer is far from the only covetable new release added to TAG Heuer’s motorsports lineup lately. While the brand’s reputation for technological innovation goes back decades — TAG stands for Technology Avant-Garde, after all — recent years have seen one groundbreaking release after another, from pitch-perfect vintage re-editions to cutting-edge luxury smartwatches to ultra-modern chronographs crafted from high-tech materials.

Following 2022, a year that saw collectors whipped into a frenzy by limited-edition tributes to the likes of Porsche and Mario Kart, the Monza is just one among several new designs that suggest TAG Heuer has equally big plans for 2023.

Joining the Monza Flyback Chronometer is the new TAG Heuer Connected Calibre E4 Sport Edition 45 mm, a modern luxury smartwatch designed to keep pace with a range of high-performance activities. Released in January, along with a new 42 mm Black Titanium edition and a new 42 mm Golf Edition, the Sport Edition 45 mm features a sleek sandblasted black DLC case made from grade-2 titanium, along with a dynamic black rubber strap accented with red rubber mesh. Equipped with a heart rate sensor, compass, accelerometer, gyroscope, and barometer, it’s designed to provide essential metrics for running, cycling, swimming, golf, hiking, and other active pursuits. With its powerful Snapdragon processor and a wide range of functions, this Connected is as far from a 1960s chronograph as a 1963 Porsche 911 is from an electrified Porsche Taycan. Thanks to a range of watch faces available via the TAG Heuer Connected app, however, wearers can still get the look of a classic motorsports watch, including a high-tech riff on the Monza’s Calibre Heuer 02 and the asphalt-inspired dial of the TAG Heuer x Porsche Carrera.

Also revealed at LVMH Watch Week was the TAG Heuer Carrera 60th Anniversary, a vintage-style “panda” chronograph limited to just 600 pieces. Outfitted in a silver brushed “sunray” dial set with a trio of black subdials — a configuration reminiscent of a panda’s signature mask — this watch draws inspiration from the Heuer Carrera Glassbox 2447 SN, a 1960s model prized by collectors. With its 39 mm dial, vintage Heuer logo, and the raised profile of a ‘glass box’ sapphire crystal, the new edition is a faithful tribute to the original, as well as a reminder of TAG Heuer’s glory days in the 1960s.

Judging by recent releases like the Monza Flyback Chronometer and Connected Sport Edition 45 mm, however — not to mention Red Bull’s domination of the Formula 1 circuit in 2022 — TAG Heuer’s next golden era may have already begun.

The post TAG Heuer: Reinventing the Race appeared first on Sharp Magazine.

A Look Inside Glashütte Original

Jeremy Freed — Thu, 18 May 2023 13:00:00 +0000

Glashütte is a small town in Germany near the border with the Czech Republic. It’s a picturesque place of green hillsides and gabled buildings, but behind its quaintness is a very serious business. Glashütte is home to nearly a dozen watch brands, and has been the home of the German watchmaking industry for over 175 years. Glashütte Original isn’t the biggest or most famous brand among them, but the watches they produce are of spectacular quality nonetheless. From dials to movements, Glashütte Original designs, produces, assembles, and finishes almost every component it needs in-house, and the results can stand alongside the best watches in the world. For insight into what makes this brand unique among watchmakers, including among its high-profile neighbours in Glashütte, we spoke to Roland von Keith, CEO Glashütte Original. Here’s what he had to say.

Glashütte Original PanoInverse Limited Edition

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Glashütte Original PanoInverse Limited Edition

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Glashütte Original PanoInverse Limited Edition

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Glashütte Original PanoInverse Limited Edition

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What makes Glashütte Original unique among watch brands?

The uniqueness of our brand is rooted in our originality and power of innovation on one hand and our heritage and rich history on the other hand. A Glashütte Original represents functional design, sophisticated engineering, robust mechanics and top craftsmanship that is visible in the smallest detail. Nearly every component that goes into a Glashütte Original has been designed, crafted and finished to perfection, from the smallest polished screw to a perfectly hand-engraved three-quarter plate. More than 175 years of watchmaking expertise combined with state-of-the-art technology, innovative and creative thinking have enabled us to stand out in the market as a true original in fine watchmaking art.

Why is German watchmaking unique in and of itself?

German watchmaking has been influenced by German engineering art for a long time. The robustness of the overall construction, the functional design, the timeless aesthetics, the careful choice of materials as well as the combination of user friendliness and product durability are all very typical features of machines, cars and watches manufactured in Stuttgart, Munich, Ingolstadt, Leipzig and Glashütte. “Made in Germany” is a globally recognized seal of quality that we proudly display on the dials of our watches along with the lettering “Glashütte I/Sa.”, which stands for the famous town of Glashütte in Saxony.

Glashütte Original Senator Cosmopolite

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Glashütte Original Senator Cosmopolite

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Glashütte Original Senator Cosmopolite

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Which piece or pieces for you are most representative of Glashütte Original’s approach to the craft of watchmaking?

It is difficult to name only one particular piece, there are so many outstanding watches in our collection. One would definitely be our most recent PanoInverse Limited Edition that combines several unique features: First of all, it presents the typical asymmetric dial design shared by all our Pano models and takes its inspiration from the so-called Golden Ratio. Second, the movement has been constructed in an inverse manner allowing its inner beauty to be displayed on the dial side. This way, the elegant butterfly bridge with its duplex swan-neck fine adjustment can be admired on the front of the watch; normally this elegant construction can only be seen through the sapphire crystal on the back. In addition, this limited edition in platinum features a panorama of a big city with urban structures and individual sky-scrapers on both sides of the movement. A partially skeletonized movement adds transparency and unusual insights.

Another fascinating piece of Glashütte watchmaking art is definitely our Senator Cosmopolite, a watch that takes all 35 time zones of the world into account that are currently in use. In addition to the well-known 24 time zones that differ in full hours from GMT, it offers a choice of time zones that differ half hours and even ¾ hours from GMT such as the Chatham Islands in New Zealand that have a time difference of 12 hours and 45 min. Moreover, the watch takes summer time (Daylight Saving Time) and winter time (Standard Time) into account and features a Panorama Date that switches forward and backward according to the direction and time of travel.

Why is it important to make 95% of your components in-house?

It is absolutely vital for our company to produce nearly all watch components in-house as this high degree of production depth allows us full control over the level of quality and adds flexibility and independence to our operations. Especially the Covid pandemic has shown how quickly delivery chains can be interrupted and how important it is to be as independent as possible from suppliers and service providers. We are proud to be able to design and create not only our own special tools but nearly every component that goes into our watches including the smallest screws or the filigree discs that are the basis for our Panorama Date. In addition to the technical aspect, it is also part of our brand identity to make watches the authentic way; from the first sketch to the final product – all done in-house by our own people.

What are the advantages of being a part of the Swatch Group and how much does it influence the brand’s output. Does it create any new opportunities with the other prestige brands?

Being part of the world’s biggest watch group has many advantages. Glashütte Original benefits from a global distribution network, established contacts with influential media representatives and trusted suppliers for the few parts that it does not produce itself such as cases, straps or clasps. We definitely enjoy more synergies and resources as a member of the Swatch Group family of brands than a stand-alone brand without any affiliation to a bigger group. Moreover, being part of an international group helps attract and retain especially younger staff who look for international job opportunities when making a career choice.

How does the current trend of enthusiasm for watch collecting benefit Glashütte Original?

The current enthusiasm for collecting fine watches is of course a positive trend for us. In addition to our unlimited models that are all exquisitely crafted and unique, we offer a various pieces that are limited to a very small number, which makes them ideal timepieces to collect such as our PanoInverse Limited Edition launched this year or the skeletonized version of our PanoMaticCalendar that we presented last year. The colourful Seventies Limited Edition models we introduced over the past 2 years in bright yellow, sky blue, or deep turquoise sold out quickly and have become sought-after collector items. We also offer on a regular basis Annual Editions that are not limited by number but limited within a certain time period. Our iconic Sixties watches with their stunning colours and dégradé effects now have many fans within the watch community.

What are your ambitions for Glashütte Original in the future? Would you like to see the brand become a global household name or are you content to remain a niche brand known mostly among collectors?

Our ambition is of course to have a healthy growth and an expansion of our customer base. While we are already well established within the community of watch connoisseurs and collectors, it is our aim to broaden our appeal to younger and new audiences that have a taste for unusual designs, refined materials, exclusive products and high-end craftsmanship. Due to the nature and relatively small size of our manufactory and thus the limits imposed on production numbers, we will never become a global household name. It is definitely not our ambition to become a mass market luxury brand with hundreds of thousands of watches produced a year.

Learn more

The post A Look Inside Glashütte Original appeared first on Sharp Magazine.

Daily Driver: The Case for the Steel Sports Watch

Justin Mastine-Frost — Tue, 16 May 2023 21:10:28 +0000

All collections have their go-tos, from the navy blazer that looks great with everything to the classic album where every track is as good as the last. Your watch wardrobe is no different — and the steel sports watch has just the right balance of ruggedness and refinement to be your go-to any day of the week. Whether you’re suiting up for the workday or sipping Negronis by the pool, these stylish selects will never let you down.

If you were to listen to headlines alone, this category is unequivocally dominated by Rolex; that doesn’t quite paint the whole picture. It is indeed accurate that all steel Rolex sports watches have become incredibly difficult to acquire from Rolex authorized retailers — unless you have a longstanding relationship with your AD — and the waits for models like the Daytona and even the GMT-Master II can still be several years. That said, there’s absolutely no shortage of steel sports watches in the market that are also worthy of your hard-earned dollars.

HAMILTON JAZZMASTER PERFORMER AUTO,$1,480; TUDOR BLACK BAY 41 S&G, $6,660; PANERAI LUMINOR DUE, $9,400.

ROLEX OYSTER PERPETUAL 41, $7,550. JACKET ($905) BY HAROLD, AT HARRY ROSEN; SHIRT ($258) BY JOOP!; PANTS ($1,175) BY HERMÈS.

SEIKO PROSPEX 1970 DIVER’S MODERN REINTERPRETATION “SAVE THE OCEAN”, $1,750; LONGINES MASTER COLLECTION, $2,850; IWC PORTUGIESER AUTOMATIC 40, PRICE UPON REQUEST.

OMEGA AQUA TERRA 150M CO-AXIAL MASTER CHRONOMETER 41 MM, $8,100; MIDO COMMANDER BIG DATE, $1,250; JAEGER-LECOULTRE POLARIS DATE, $11,000; TAG HEUER CARRERA, $4,000; GRAND SEIKO SPORT COLLECTION SBGM247 AUTOMATIC GMT, $7,400.

CHOPARD ALPINE EAGLE 41, $18,700. JACKET ($898) BY JOOP!; SWEATER, STYLIST’S OWN.

VACHERON CONSTANTIN OVERSEAS SELF-WINDING, $27,500. SWEATER ($3,500) BY KITON, AT HARRY ROSEN.

The Case for the Steel Sports Watch

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HAMILTON JAZZMASTER PERFORMER AUTO,$1,480; TUDOR BLACK BAY 41 S&G, $6,660; PANERAI LUMINOR DUE, $9,400.

The Case for the Steel Sports Watch

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ROLEX OYSTER PERPETUAL 41, $7,550. JACKET ($905) BY HAROLD, AT HARRY ROSEN; SHIRT ($258) BY JOOP!; PANTS ($1,175) BY HERMÈS.

The Case for the Steel Sports Watch

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SEIKO PROSPEX 1970 DIVER’S MODERN REINTERPRETATION “SAVE THE OCEAN”, $1,750; LONGINES MASTER COLLECTION, $2,850; IWC PORTUGIESER AUTOMATIC 40, PRICE UPON REQUEST.

The Case for the Steel Sports Watch

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The Case for the Steel Sports Watch

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CHOPARD ALPINE EAGLE 41, $18,700. JACKET ($898) BY JOOP!; SWEATER, STYLIST’S OWN.

The Case for the Steel Sports Watch

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VACHERON CONSTANTIN OVERSEAS SELF-WINDING, $27,500. SWEATER ($3,500) BY KITON, AT HARRY ROSEN.

In recent years the steel sports watch category has evolved dramatically. On one end of the spectrum, there’s been a huge boom in popularity of integrated bracelets, notably encouraged by the soaring secondary market prices commanded by highly collectible watches like the Patek Philippe Nautilus and Audemars Piguet Royal Oak. That said, we’re seeing demand move away from those watches and towards elegant alternatives from other makers. Like many trends, collectors begin to grow weary when hype hits a threshold. Both Vacheron Constantin and Chopard, among others, have benefited greatly from this shift in tastes, as the Overseas and Alpine Eagle have become rather highly sought after of late.

LEFT: VACHERON CONSTANTIN OVERSEAS SELF-WINDING, $27,500. SWEATER ($3,500) BY KITON, AT HARRY ROSEN. RIGHT: CHOPARD ALPINE EAGLE 41, $18,700. JACKET ($898) BY JOOP!; SWEATER, STYLIST’S OWN.

There’s certainly more to the steel sports watch category than all thing integrated. After all, there’s something to be said for the versatility of a watch fitted with conventional lugs; the range of strap type and materials options are nearly boundless. Most love a good steel bracelet, but sometimes the softness of leather or the ruggedness of rubber are a better fit for the day, event, or adventure that lies ahead. As always though, our advice remains the same: always buy a watch on bracelet, as it’ll cost you more in the long run if you go back to buy it separately.

Because the category is still equal parts diverse and ubiquitous, the way the bracelet connects to the watch case is only the beginning of the conversation. Under the umbrella of sports watch, there’s still room for interpretation in regards to how dressy or casual a particular watch can be. Just looking at our layouts below, where the Aqua Terra, Commander, and Carrera can easily pass with shirt-and-tie vibes, the Polaris and Grand Seiko are more California casual at best.

For so long, the broader perception was that a gold watch was the pinnacle of luxury, yet now looking at market values and auction records around the globe, steel is where it’s at. When you also consider that steel watches draw less attention in places like London and Los Angeles where watch theft continues to rise, there’s all the more reason to lean towards the more “utilitarian” of metals.

Photography: Michael Kazimierczuk (Impossible Studios)

Prop Styling: Zach Noftall (Plutino Group)

Styling: Haley Dach

Photo Assistant: Ethan Allen

The post Daily Driver: The Case for the Steel Sports Watch appeared first on Sharp Magazine.

Over the Rainbow: Hublot Doubles Down on Colour

Jeremy Freed — Wed, 10 May 2023 20:41:36 +0000

Hublot kicked off 2023 with a bang — three big bangs, to be exact. The Big Bang Unico SORAI, the most modest of the three (relatively speaking), features a yellow-to-purple gradient dial and a matching multicolour camo strap. The Big Bang Integrated King Gold Rainbow, meanwhile, is festooned with nearly 1,000 rainbow- coloured gemstones set precisely into a case made of King Gold, Hublot’s proprietary 18k alloy. Even more impressive, however, is the Big Bang Tourbillon Automatic Yellow Neon SAXEM, a watch made from a transparent sapphire alloy the colour of a tennis ball. In an industry where a dial colour other than black or white can be seen as adventurous, creations like the Big Bang tend to stand out. At Hublot, however, audacity is and always has been the name of the game — particularly where colour is concerned.

The first Hublot watch was introduced in 1980, a period during which traditional Swiss watchmaking was threatened by quartz technology, and the industry was desperately in need of fresh new ideas. By pairing a nautically inspired gold case (‘hublot’ is French for porthole) with a black rubber strap — a combination never seen before in luxury watchmaking — the brand’s youthful and iconoclastic approach was a perfect fit for the new decade.

Now, some 40 years later, the Swiss brand has expanded its offerings far beyond that original concept to dozens of bold designs in a rainbow of colours, often making use of unusual materials. With over-the-top designs and collaborations with the likes of Japanese artist Takashi Murakami, fashion designer Samuel Ross, and celebrity tattoo artist Sang Bleu, Hublot has earned a devoted following by creating watches that stand out on the wrist.

“It’s clear that high watchmaking is changing with new clients and collectors that are searching for daring pieces,” says Nussbaumer. “The rules of watchmaking are always being reinvented and reinterpreted. This is a big part of Hublot’s philosophy.”

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Les Cabinotiers Dual Moon Grand Complication

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Les Cabinotiers Dual Moon Grand Complication

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There’s a long and storied history of watchmakers vying to cram as many complications into a movement as possible, but few have ever managed it with this much style. This piece unique (watch parlance for one-of-one) contains a new manual-winding in-house movement with 11 horological complications including a minute repeater, a perpetual calendar, moon phases, and a sky chart. It’s hard to conceive of the complexity and precision required to make all of this work, and due to the double-sided nature of the design (all the better to display that beautiful sky chart on the reverse) the only ones who will ever get to admire it fully are the watchmakers who built it. Fortunately, there’s still plenty here for the lucky owner to enjoy.

The post Vacheron Constantin Goes All-In Retrograde Complications In 2023 appeared first on Sharp Magazine.

Watch the Throne: Stéfanos Tsitsipas Eyes the Biggest Prize in Tennis

Jeremy Freed — Wed, 03 May 2023 21:31:47 +0000

The night before his final match against Novak Djokovic, Stéfanos Tsitsipas dreamed of holding the Norman Brooks Challenge Cup over his head as the winner of the Australian Open. “I really, really want it badly,” the Greek tennis star and Rolex Testimonee told the press ahead of the historic match in January. Tsitsipas didn’t win that day in Melbourne. But he may not have to wait long to realize his dream of securing his first Grand Slam title.

Stéfanos Tsitsipas left Melbourne ranked third in the world, and his showing at the Australian Open is just the latest step in a steady climb towards the sport’s biggest achievement: winning one of the ATP tour’s four Grand Slam tournaments. At just 24 years old, Tsitsipas has already made history, most recently becoming the highest-ranked Greek player of all time in 2019. Since then, he has been chasing victory every year at the Australian Open, making it to the semi-finals for the last three consecutive events, and making the finals for the first time in 2023.

“The Australian Open has always been special for me,” Tsitsipas says. “The French players have Roland-Garros as their home Grand Slam, the British players have Wimbledon, the American players have the US Open. Melbourne is the city with the second-largest Greek population after Athens, [so] for me, the Australian Open is always going to be my home Grand Slam. I feel very much loved there.”

Tsitsipas achieved another career milestone when he was invited to compete under the Rolex banner in 2019. Rolex has been a major presence in professional tennis since 1978, when the Swiss watchmaker became the Official Timekeeper of The Championships, Wimbledon. Since then, Rolex has taken on the role of Official Timekeeper for all four tennis Grand Slams, with its iconic green and gold clock presiding over the biggest matchups in the sport. In addition to sponsorship support, becoming a Rolex Testimonee put Tsitsipas in the company of some of most decorated players in tennis history, from Björn Borg to Roger Federer, as well as other up-and-coming stars like Taylor Fritz and Holger Rune.

“I’m feeling great with my tennis at the moment. I genuinely believe in what I’m able to produce.”
Stéfanos Tsitsipas

It was also a long-awaited opportunity to acquire his own grail watch. “What Rolex means to me is very different to other people,” he says. “For me, I never really owned a watch until recently, and I always had the idea that if I was to get a watch, it would be one of impeccable quality. I stuck by this and years later, I was able to get my first Rolex Daytona, which is still to this day one of my favourite watches to wear.”

Despite not taking the top prize in Melbourne, Tsitsipas left the Australian Open proud of what he accomplished there. “Being able to play and compete in finals like these is what you work for as a professional athlete, and reaching the Australian Open final this year has definitely given me lots of confidence to go and win a Grand Slam final,” he says. “I’m feeling great with my tennis at the moment. I genuinely believe in what I’m able to produce.”

The next big event on the Greek star’s schedule was the Rolex Monte-Carlo Masters in April. He returned to the Monte Carlo Country Club as the defending champion before a loss to Taylor Fritz just before the semifinals.

Not one to languish, Tsitsipas will move on to the French Open in May where he’ll face off against the best players in the world on the famed clay courts of Roland-Garros, including Rafael Nadal who will be gunning for his 15th win there. Taking down Nadal at the French Open would be a monumental upset, but Tsitsipas remains optimistic about his prospects for the months ahead. In a sport like tennis, where wildcard players can beat reigning champs at major events, Tsitsipas could be just a few good sets away from the number one spot in the world.

“To win a Grand Slam and be world number one is a childhood dream,” he says. “Winning titles and trophies is the reason why I wake up early in the mornings for practice and work hard in my everyday life, but I think it’s important to celebrate even the smallest victories.”

The post Watch the Throne: Stéfanos Tsitsipas Eyes the Biggest Prize in Tennis appeared first on Sharp Magazine.